salamanca

After a millpond-like crossing we arrived in the vicinity of Santander on the north coast of Span on a glorious sunny morning. Several dolphins escorted us in, leaping and powering through the bow waves, a group that included a mother and calf.

It is surprising how quickly the coast hoves into view, first as a dim outline and then a golden beach catching the morning sun and the sharp peaks of the Cantabrian mountains becoming defined. Spain is a much pointier place than the UK with real mountains, rather than the hills we fondly call mountains. (OK-except for bits of Scotland and even fewer bits of Wales..)

And by late afternoon, we reached our first real stopping point. The glorious city of Salamanca-La Ciudad Dorada-the Golden City, named for the lovely colour of the sandstone buildings that seem to glow golden in the sunshine. It is Roman in foundation but many of the loveliest buildings, apart from the old cathedral, date from the eighteenth century. Like Oxford and Cambridge it is a University city-and still full of the vibrancy of young people. It was the University of Loyola and of some of the Conquistadors including Cortes and Coronado. The great Plaza Mayor, surrounded on all 4 sides by colonnaded walkways, can hold 20,000 people and is a frequently a hub of activity.

Except on a rainy day in May when it looks like this-photo and sketch.

Not a time to linger over an ice cream, or a glass of ice cold beer and a dish of olives. Not even a day for lovely hot coffee. Just after I took this picture, a waiter rushed out to strip the red cloths from the tables and it became too wet to stir out from under the arches. We waited for a gap in the heavy showers to run for the shelter of the hotel, a Parador, built on a hill facing the two great Cathedrals. Beautiful view from our room….

Paradors are an inspired idea. I quote

” The Spanish Paradores are hotels for luxury accommodation in castles, palaces, fortresses, convents,monasteries and other historic buildings. There are also modern hotels, built in traditional style, in areas of outstanding natural beauty.”

And they are not that pricey, certainly by English standards. It was our treat to ourselves that we booked 2 nights in different Paradors on the journeys down and back to the port. Salamanca’s is one of the new ones, built to take advantage of that view.